Exfoli-great
Happy Thursday from perpetually cloudy & still gloomy NYC, where Spring refuses to actually Spring and we are all so very over it. Maybe if we all gather in one place and sing a rousing and earnest rendition of "Let the Sunshine In" the clouds will part, the sun will shine, and joy will return to our hearts. It's worth a try, right?
Often I'm asked what's the most important step in one's skin care routine. This is an incredibly hard question to answer as a skin care professional. To me EVERY step is the most important step. The question is tantamount to asking me to pick my favorite red lipstick or the best shape of pasta or which way whiskey tastes best. You can't ask me to choose because I need all of them... all the red... all the pasta... all the whiskey!
However, if pressed, I would have to choose Exfoliation. Without it the rest of your skin care regimen doesn't truly work. But why? But how? But when? This and many other questions will be answered on this episode of “As the Face Turns”.
Exfoliation is integral to any skin care regimen. Without it, old & dry skin cells remain at the skin's surface decreasing the effectiveness of your serums & moisturizers. The ingredients are absorbed by the dry skin rather than reaching fresher skin where they can do the most good. Think of your skin as a garden. When you're starting out, you have to till and prepare the soil in order to plant your seeds. Can you just go outside & sprinkle some seeds on the ground and maybe see some buds sprout in the Spring? Sure... however, you won't get the same results you would if you took the time to prime the ground. Exfoliation prepares the "soil" (your skin) to plant your "seeds" (active ingredients) and watch them "grow" (you get it). With regular exfoliation dry skin, dirt, and oil don’t have an opportunity to clog pores thereby clearing the way for your products to do the most good.
How often should you exfoliate? That depends on a few factors: age, skin type, lifestyle, & your environment. The life of a skin cell is roundabout 30 days. This is commonly referred to as "cellular turnover". For folks in their 20s, a skin cell created at this moment will be at the surface and ready to slough off in about 28 days. As you age, the natural process slows and by the time you reach your 40s the window opens to about 35 days. Younger skins can get away with exfoliating once or twice a week with a general scrub while more mature & drier skins need to tackle exfoliation on multiple levels. Below is a guide to determining the proper exfoliation regimen for your skin type plus a few tweaks to add to suit your unique lifestyle.
Dry Skin
Dry skin needs special TLC to stay healthy & hydrated. Drier skin types tend to lose lipids and nutrients faster than other skin types. As a result dry skin can become rough and uneven in texture. Using a traditional scrub isn't always enough. A multi-level approach is ideal to tackle flakiness & increase skin cell turnover. Using a serum with Alpha Hydroxy acids nightly along with using a gentle scrub occasionally can improve texture and tone while improving product penetration and reduce the look of fine lines and wrinkles. Alpha Hydroxy acids exfoliate by chemically breaking up the "glue" that holds surface skin cells together and dissolving them. Glycolic Acid, the most popular of all AHAs, is a widely used ingredient in anti-aging products. Derived from sugar cane, its smaller molecular size means it can penetrate the farthest into the skin and actually increases skin's moisture content by about 10%. Citric Acid helps brighten skin while Mandelic Acid addresses hyperpigmentation and scaring. Another way to benefit from the goodness of AHAs is incorporating at-home peels into your routine.
I know... "peel" can be a scary word. However, most at-home products are at a low percentage and easy to use for pros and novices alike. Dr Gross Alpha Beta Peel Pads are a two step at- home treatment and an absolute favorite among estheticians because it combines several different AHAs along with Salicylic Acid, the lone Beta Hydroxy acid (more on that later). Combining manual exfoliation (scrubs) with chemical exfoliation (AHAs, at-home peels) can help to eradicate dryness on two levels; scrubs working from the top down, AHAs working from the inside out. The two methods meet in the middle to give you gorgeous glowing skin. Note: ALWAYS be sure to use sunscreen daily if using Alpha Hydroxy acids because your skin can become more sensitive to sun exposure, aggravating sun & age spots or any post-acne scaring. Find some of my favorite SPFs here.
Oily Skin
Sluggish skin cell turnover can be a huge issue for my fellow oily-skinned kinfolk. The same turnover rates apply, but the elevated rate of sebum production in oily skin means dead skin cells can become trapped at the skin's surface and not slough off. To hasten those old-ass skin cells to get up and get the hell out, it's imperative to exfoliate regularly. Consistent exfoliation keeps old skin from settling in larger pores and can help keep blackheads & breakouts at bay. The sole Beta Hydroxy acid is Salicylic. Unlike AHAs, Salicylic Acid is oil soluble, meaning it can cut through sebum, dirt, and makeup better than AHAs can, leading to a more thorough exfoliation. A derivative of Aspirin, Salicylic Acid is antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and deeply cleanses pores to combat acne. Salicylic Acid can be found in any number of products, usually at a concentration of about 2% (the maximum allowed in over-the-counter facial products). When used regularly, Salicylic Acid can slow sebum production & reduce the frequency of breakouts while calming irritation associated with acne. The Dr Gross Alpha Beta Pads also work amazingly on oily skin (and have been saving my life for years). The multiple acids work on not only controlling acne but also alleviate any post-pimple pigmentation. Beauty Expert fave Paula's Choice makes an array of Salicylic Acid-based exfoliators, toners, and treatments to refine the skin's texture, control oil production, and fight acne. Their Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant is a cult favorite and for good reason. With regular use, this exfoliant helps reduce oil production, refines texture, and beats blackheads with a bat.
Don't Be a Member of Team Too Much
When it comes to exfoliation, you can absolutely go overboard. Over-exfoliation can lead to irritation, dehydration, and can send your skin screaming in the opposite direction of your ultimate goal. If you're trying to fight blemishes, scrubbing too much can aggravate your skin, spread bacteria, and cause breakouts. If you're combating dryness you can irritate the skin, stripping away much-needed moisture, and cause even more flakiness. Use your scrub no more than once a week (twice in warmer weather) and always be sure to follow up with a “skin-propriate” moisturizer to nourish that fresh, new skin your exfoliation just revealed. The best time to exfoliate is at night. This clears the way for the awesome ingredients in your serums and moisturizers to do their work while you sleep. Pro tip: introduce AHAs/BHA products into your routine slowly. I recommend using them a few times a week at first then increasing usage as your skin becomes accustomed to the ingredients. Measured incorporation of new ingredients ensures the skin gets used to them without freaking the freak out all over the place. a
If your skin is currently feeling stifled under the cloak of this Winter that refuses to cease, stepping up your exfoliation game can make a huge difference. Exfoliation is an invaluable tool in your skin care arsenal and can be the catalyst to take your skin to a whole 'notha level of “Dayum, Boo”. Nothing feels quite as good as sunshine on your fresh, glowing, baby-soft face... that's also covered in SPF 50.
Seriously... don't forget the sunscreen.
Until next time, Lovlies... Stay Beautiful!
