Acid Trip
In the skin care game, one of the most commonly used category of ingredients in products across the spectrum are Alpha Hydroxy Acids. AHAs can be found in cleansers, toners, moisturizers, treatment serums.... they are in everything. You're probably using them right now & you don't even know it. What do they do? How do they work? Where do they come from? Why should you use them?
Come with me...
The What, Where, & Why
Alpha Hydroxy Acids are commonly used in products to stimulate cellular turnover, exfoliate, & improve the skin's all-around tone. While they are most prevalent in anti-aging products, AHAs are incredibly beneficial for all skin types and can address a panoply of skin concerns. AHA/BHAs can help brighten hyper-pigmentation or post-acne pigmentation, smooth rough texture, control oil production, treat fine lines or wrinkles, and treat acne. There are a variety of different acids that fall in the category of Alpha Hydroxy Acid; these include Citric, Lactic, Glycolic, Mandelic, Malic, & Tartaric. The only Beta Hydroxy is Salicylic Acid, an oily child's best friend. All of these AHA/BHAs have natural derivations but can also be created synthetically. As one would expect, natural sourcing of these ingredients can make for safer & more effective products but may lead to skin sensitivities. Natural or organic versions of these acids can be more potent and if your skin isn't accustomed to their strength irritation can occur. It's important to patch test or slowly integrate AHA/BHA products into your routine to keep these irritations to a minimum.
But, How?
Overall, Alpha Hydroxy Acids' primary job is to exfoliate and boost cellular turnover. However, varying acids have secondary benefits & characteristics that help specific issues. Glycolic acid is one of the most common AHAs used on the market. It's derived from sugar cane, so it's easily synthesized and doesn't cost a lot to do so. Glycolic acid also has the smallest molecular size so it penetrates to the lower layers of the skin quickly. Since sugar is a humectant (moisture-binding), Glycolic acid also has the benefit of helping to hydrate the skin as it works making it an ideal AHA for dry or mature skin. Due to it's smaller molecular size & quick absorption, it can be irritating to sensitive skin or skins that aren't accustomed to AHAs. Glycolic Acid can also make the skin photosensitive meaning daily SPF a MUST.
Glycolic acid works very well with other AHAs such as Lactic acid (from sour milk) and Citric acid (from citrus-rich fruits & veggies). Lactic acid is an exfoliating powerhouse. Where Glycolic works in the deeper layers, it works on the skin's surface to exfoliate. Citric acid is the most popular AHA in brightening & radiance-enhancing products and gives the skin a boost of Vitamin C as it exfoliates. Mandelic acid (from almonds) is a hero against hyper-pigmentation from sun damage or acne scarring. It has one of the largest molecular sizes of the AHAs so it works primarily on the skin's surface to break up excessive melanin and soothe oily skin.
Mandelic acid pairs brilliantly with the lone Beta Hydroxy Acid, Salicylic acid. Salicylic acid is primarily used by those with oily or acne prone skin. A relative of Aspirin, it kills bacteria in the pores, reduces inflammation, and works to regulate oil production in the skin. Compared to Benzoyl Peroxide, Salicylic acid can be a gentler, more holistic ingredient to use in the fight against breakouts. Some natural sources for Salicylic acid are Chinese Wintergreen & Willow Bark. When used in conjunction with its Alpha Hydroxy cousins, Salicylic acid adds a calming & oil controlling dimension to any exfoliation product.
NOW a Warning?
Yes, now a warning. Alpha & Beta Hydroxy acids can help to turn around a good many skin care concerns but they must be used mindfully & carefully. An overuse of these exfoliating acids can lead to irritation, redness, breakouts, or flaking. If you've never used an AHA or BHA product before, start slowly... ain't no rush, baby. Begin using the product a few nights a week for a little while. Once your skin has acclimated to the ingredients, you can increase your frequency. Any AHA/BHA product is best used as part of your nighttime routine. Some Alpha & Beta Hydroxy Acids can remain active in the lower levels of the skin for as many as eight hours after their use. This makes them ideal to use while you sleep and your skin is in repair mode.
It's common to feel a slight tingle on the skin when your first begin using Alpha & Beta Hydroxy acids. The tingle means it's working! Burning, on the other hand, isn't what you want. If you apply an AHA/BHA product and feel severe stinging or burning remove immediately with cotton pads soaked in toner or cool water to stop their activity. The most effective placement of AHA/BHAs in your nighttime regimen would be as a treatment toner or serum. Treatment toners and serums are designed to penetrate and dry quickly and can be formulated with the highest concentration of the ingredients you're looking for. Use them after cleansing and before moisturizing for optimal absorption, efficacy, and buttery-skin-softness.
Because you want that...
Final warning: be careful of cheap products that have a heavy concentration of just one type of AHA vs a blend of several. The AHA Siblings have a way of balancing out the contraindications in each other and when formulated with good stabilizing ingredients the chances of excessive irritation are decreased. This is especially true of Vitamin C or Citric Acid heavy products if they're formulated with low-quality ingredients. When it comes to AHA & BHA treatment products you honestly get what you pay for. Good quality Alpha & Beta Hydroxy treatments are worth investing a decent amount of your beauty dollar. The higher quality the product, the faster you'll see results safely.
I hope I've unraveled a bit of the mystery of Alpha & Beta Hydroxy acids for you. When used properly they can take your skin from zero to hero just like that. Whatever your concern, there is a cocktail of AHAs out there just for YOU. If you need more guidance or have any questions about the information contained in this pregnant post, feel free to contact me. Our phones lines are open 24/7 to serve you.
Lies... email me & I'll get back to you.
Keep it up, Beautiful... you're doing great.
