Hyperpigmentation: The REAL Phantom Menace
Hyperpigmentation is the number one concern of every single client I work with. No exceptions. It knows no age, gender, race, creed, sexual orientation, or nationality. It is insidious. It is pervasive. It is the bane of all of our existences. Hyperpigementation has a laundry list of causes with an equally long list of courses of actions to fix it. Battling Hyperpigmentation is the longest, hardest skin care challenge we face. This makes writing about it my personal Mt. Everest. I've been avoiding hyperpigmentation as a post since the birth of Blush & Bourbon. It is a gargantuan and multilayered subject BUT it is too important a topic for me to avoid. Therefore, I shall tackle it head-on. Let's start at the beginning... it's a very good place to start.
The Whats and the Whys
Hyperpigmentation is the darkening of the skin due to an increased production of melanin, the substance that gives our skin, eyes, and hair their color. HP has a multitude of causes; age, overexposure to the sun, hormonal fluctuations, pregnancy, illness, injury, friction... the list is long. Some pigmentation issues, like acne scarring or injuries, can be eliminated or diminished over time through a diligent & thoughtful skin care routine. Other HP causes, like Melasma & sun damage, are much harder to tackle. This all depends on where in the layers of the skin the hyperpigmentation is originating and how long the pigmentation has existed. The deeper the damage, the more difficult it will be to alleviate the issue. But do not fret!
In this post, I will go through some of the most common types of hyperpigmentation and the most effective treatments for them. With diligence, persistence, care, and patience you can change your skin. Hyperpigmentation, while stubborn as a mean mule on a Monday morning, is treatable and manageable. You just gotta BELIEVE!
But How, Tho?
Tackling Hyperpigmentation requires a multifaceted, many-layered approach. Every single step of your skin care routine can help to diminish dark marks and scars OR can make them worse. Using the wrong type of products for your skin can increase inflammation, one of HP's catalysts. Excessive inflammation increases blood flow to the skin in a bad way that can increase melanin production (we'll get into that in depth later).
The most important facet of your routine when it comes to fighting hyperpigmentation is exfoliation. Maintaining a healthy and consistent exfoliation regimen clears out old, dry skin and makes way for new skin cells to be revealed. There are two type of exfoliation: physical and chemical. Physical exfoliation works on the surface of your skin and take the forms of scrubs or tools (i.e skin care brushes, microdermabrasion). Sometimes called manual exfoliation, these products work to clear surface debris like dry skin and clogged pores as well as increase microcirculation at the skin's surface. This can be a great glow-getter for oily and acne prone skins that tend to suffer from a lack of circulation that leads to poor cellular turnover. Chemical exfoliants are peels, masks, enzyme treatments, or toners that contain Alpha or Beta Hydroxy Acids. Anything that you apply to your skin and don't have to manipulate is considered chemical exfoliation (this includes exfoliating sheet masks). Depending on the ingredients, chemical exfoliants work on the cellular level of your skin to dissolve dead skin cells, kill acne-causing bacteria, and increase skin cell turnover. The healthier your skin cell turnover, the faster the old, scarred skin will slough off and new skin will be revealed. Chemical exfoliation is a great option for sensitive and dry skin types since traditional scrubs may be irritating to delicate skins.
Don't think you have to choose solely between manual or chemical exfoliation to address your hyperpigmentation problems. They can be used together to tackle pigmentation issues from both the surface and the lower levels of the skin. In fact, the key to improving my severe post-acne scarring in my early 30s was regular double exfoliation; using both physical and chemical exfoliation (sometimes simultaneously... don't try this at home). This can be especially effective when using Alpha or Beta Hydroxy Acids as part of your exfoliation routine. Physical exfoliation clears surface debris and clears the way for deeper, faster penetration of the AHA/BHA products you may use. But beware... over-exfoliation can lead to irritation and increased inflammation that can make hyperpigmentation worse. Speaking of inflammation...
Acne and Post-Inflammatory Pigmentation
The most common and well-known cause of hyperpigmentation is acne. This type of pigmentation can also be referred to as post-inflammatory pigmentation (PIP), the scarring that is the result of inflammation or injury to the epidermis. Most acne is caused by a follicle becoming clogged with bacteria, oil, or debris. Pus and fluid collect in the follicle to fight any bacteria resulting in a pustule (a pimple...ew). This causes trauma to the skin and when trauma happens blood rushes to the area to bring nourishment to the skin to begin the healing process. The after-effect of this trauma is almost always a red or brown-colored scar. Acne doesn't have to be pustules to cause a scar. Papules, breakouts that don't develop pus or fluid, can cause scarring as well due to the presence of inflammation.
In my experience, the trick to easing and preventing PIP is nourishing and calming the skin during the healing process. When the skin is in repair mode after a breakout, new skin cells are being created rapidly to heal the wound. During this phase the skin is in desperate need of hydration, moisture, and protection to strengthen the new skin being created. The stronger your skin, the faster it heals. The faster it heals, the faster you can begin your exfoliation routine, and the faster the post-inflammatory pigmentation fades.
Using products rich in hyaluronic acid, collagen, or elastin not only nourish the new skin being created but speed up the healing process. All of those substances are naturally present in our skin and start to breakdown as we age, making healing take longer as we get older (BOO). Incorporating them into your routine along with a solid exfoliation schedule can go a long way to heal the skin before the pimple even becomes a scar. During the healing period it is imperative to not pick, touch, mess with, fool around with, poke, prod, or disrupt the injured area. Picking pimples while they're healing re-traumatizes the area starting the healing process all over again. Continually causing injury to a spot you're trying to heal will only increase inflammation in the area thereby increasing the resulting pigmentation issues you're going to have post-breakout. Let's not even talk about how picking your breakouts spreads bacteria from your dirty hands to the very vulnerable healing wound thereby increasing the chances you'll have another bigger, badder, deeper pimple in the very near future. Hands off. I mean it. Seriously.
Sun Damage & Age Spots & Hormones... Oh, My
Hyperpigmentation issues that come from UV damage are more difficult than other issues. Problems like sun damage, age spots, or Melasma occur in the Dermis, the layer of skin where melanin is created and our sebaceous glands live. Pigmentation that is rooted in this area is much harder to treat than scarring that occurs in the Epidermis. These types of pigmentation issues have to do with malfunctioning melanocytes, the cells that create our melanin. In the case of sun damage, the melanocytes have been overexposed to UVA/UVB rays and release too much pigment in one area causing a freckle or spot. (This is why I fuss at you all about wearing your SPF... more on that soon). Once a melanocyte has gone rogue it can't be brought back into line and taught to behave properly again. The UV exposure has essentially broken that melanocyte for good. The freckle or spot may lighten but will never disappear completely.
While sun and age spots are small patches or freckled of hyperpigmentation, Melasma is more widespread, occurring in larger patches on the forehead and cheeks, & develops symmetrically on the face. Melasma can also appear on other parts of the body like the arms, chest, & back. Melasma is more prominent in women than men and can occur during pregnancy. Although it usually disappears after giving birth, it can return with age thanks to our shifting hormones. Hormones play a huge role in the development of Melasma, especially in women who've had issues with PCOS, have used Birth Control for long periods of time, or have dealt with frequent hormonal imbalances. Melasma occurs in the Dermis much like sun damage & also involves malfunctioning melanocytes. This plus hormonal factors make Melasma difficult to treat. Like sun damage, Melasma is prevented and lessened by diligent SPF use but there are treatments and dermatologist procedures that can reduce the severity of the hyperpigmentation.
What's This About Acids, Now?
As I mentioned earlier, Alpha & Beta Hydroxy Acids can do a lot to help improve hyperpigmentation, particularly post-inflammatory pigmentation. I've talked about Alpha & Beta Hydroxy Acids in the past and am I devoted user of almost every AHA in the book. The most effective AHAs for pigmentation issues are Citric Acid (from citrus fruits), Lactic Acid, and Mandelic Acid (from bitter almonds... I don't know why they're so bitter... they're almonds!). Citric Acid, like Vitamin C, helps to brighten the skin and reduce the look of scarring and age spots. Lactic Acid, usually derived from milk or dairy products, is a powerhouse exfoliator that helps to smooth the skin and reduce the rough texture common in oily-skinned folks. Mandelic Acid (my favorite) is magical at breaking down excessive pigment in the skin, killing bacteria, and treating acne. Mandelic Acid is incredibly safe for melanin-rich skin. It has a large molecular size meaning it penetrates the skin slowly and gently exfoliates without the irritation that can sometimes come from smaller-moleculed Glycolic Acid. Glycolic, while great in it's own right, hits the lower levels of the skin very quickly due to it's small molecular size, this can lead to irritation in melanin-rich skin tones and what did I say about irritation and inflammation?
Using any of the above Alpha Hydroxy Acids with Tyrosinase Inhibitors like Kojic Acid, Azelaic Acid, and Alpha Arbutin can help to prevent new hyperpigmentation issues from occurring while working on your existing concerns. What are Tyrosinase Inhibitors? So glad you asked... Tyrosinase is the enzyme in our skin that causes the amino acid Tyrosine to oxidize and create melanin. This process happens daily as new skin cells are created but we see it in action when we tan. It's our skin's natural defense against UV exposure. Tyrosinase Inhibitors keep Tyrosinase from over-oxidizing Tyrosine thereby preventing the creation of excessive melanin. This is science, y'all. SKIN CARE IS SCIENCE, Y'ALL.
Common naturally-occurring Tyrosinase inhibitors are Kojic Acid, Azelaic Acid, Alpha Arbutin, Bearberry, Licorice Root, & Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C!). Hydroquinone is the most dangerous Tyrosinase inhibitor... it's essentially a bleach and removes existing melanin from the skin and makes the skin more vulnerable to sun damage. It may lighten the skin but Hydroquinone also takes all the life out of your tone and makes the skin look grey, dull, & lifeless. Stay away... please... seriously... I'm begging you... don't do it.
About SPF...
Sun protection is honestly the linchpin in any Hyperpigmentation-fighting regimen. Without it, UV exposure will completely reverse all the work your peels, toners, scrubs, and Tyrosinase inhibitors have been doing. You can boost your skin's natural SPF by incorporating antioxidants into your daytime routine. Antioxidants help prevent free radical damage but also increase your skin's protection against UVA & UVB rays. Vitamin C, the king of antioxidants is rich in Ascorbic Acid and works best when paired with regular SPF use.
Your fresh, new skin has to be protected in order to thrive, that means never leaving the house without SPF no matter your skin type. If you need some guidance, I wrote about my go-to SPFs for oily skin HERE and you can find a collection of SPFs I curated just for you on ShopStyle. Go get one right now. I know it's January but UVA rays are strongest this time of year so GO... NOW.
Um... This is A LOT, Nandi.
Yeah... I know... this is a lot of information. Hyperpigmentation is an issue that has plagued all of our faces at one point or another but with grit and commitment it is 100% manageable. With diligence, a consistent regimen, and most of all PATIENCE you can improve and clarify your skin. Just remember that fighting Hyperpigmentation is a process that doesn't happen overnight... it can be tedious work but it is work worth doing. The only real difference between you and your Instagram Skin Crush is consistency and patience. You too can start posting filterless selfies using natural light and abuse multiple hashtags to showcase your new glow. After all the time & effort you're going to put in it's what you DESERVE. Snapchat puppy & bunny filters for everyone, dammit.
Congratulations on taking this very important step in your skin care journey. I am here to support you in any way I can. I am now available for private skin care consultations! Click HERE for more information. I am so excited to help you create the skin you so richly deserve!
Until next time... Stay Hydrated. Stay Grateful. Stay Beautiful.
